Infragravity-Wave Dominance at Sea-Dikes Fronted by Very and Extremely Shallow Foreshores

Lashley, Christopher H. (Delft University of Technology) | Bricker, Jeremy D. (Delft University of Technology) | van der Meer, Jentsje (Water Science & Engineering) | Altomare, Corrado (Ghent University) | Suzuki, Tomohiro (Flanders Hydraulics Research)

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ABSTRACT While the significance of infragravity waves (IG) in many---often-hazardous---nearshore processes is widely-recognized, many of the empirical and numerical models used in dike safety assessments do not (directly) consider their contribution. Here, we combine physical and numerical modelling to better understand the factors that contribute to the dominance of IG waves over higher-frequency waves at the dike toe. Findings show that IG-wave dominance increases as the ratio of local water depth to offshore significant wave height decreases. Therefore, it is critical that any tool used to assess the safety of dikes fronted by very and extremely shallow foreshores accurately describe IG-wave dynamics. INTRODUCTION Infragravity waves (IG), also referred to as "long", "surfbeat" or "tsunami-like" waves, are now widely recognized as significant contributors to critical nearshore processes. These often-hazardous processes include: beach and dune erosion (Roelvink et al., 2009); the development of seiches in harbours (Okihiro et al., 1993); and wave-driven coastal inundation (Stockdon et al., 2006). Among recent cases are: at the rocky coast of Banneg island, where unexpectedly high runup levels were observed (Sheremet et al., 2014); during Typhoon Haiyan, where extensive damage and casualties occurred along a coral-reef-lined coast in the Philippines (Roeber and Bricker, 2015; Shimozono et al., 2015); and on the west coast of France, where several dunes were eroded and "over-washed" (Baumann et al., 2017). In each of these cases, the observed extreme water levels and resulting damage have been attributed to the presence or dominance of nearshore IG waves. Despite this, many of the widely-used empirical and numerical models either only indirectly consider IG-wave dynamics (e.g. EurOTop empirical models) or neglect them completely (e.g. SWAN numerical model). This leads to significant uncertainty in the applicability of these models in environments where IG waves dominate over wave motions at higher frequencies, that is, those typically referred to as sea and swell (SS).

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